What: Traditionally associated with festivals like el Día de los Muertos, pan de yema—a flaky, airy bread made with egg yolks—is a typical Oaxacan breakfast when paired with hot chocolate. The bread’s a bit dry on its own, but thankfully you’re supposed to dunk it into the chocolate, and it’s very absorbent. Hold it in there for a few seconds and you’ve got yourself some chocolate with a side of bread.
Where: We had our pan de yema at Comedor Candita’s (puesto 108-109) long counter in Mercado 20 de Noviembre (20 de Noviembre at Rayón, map). As is typical of many markets in Oaxaca, the chocolate—which can be ordered with milk or water, whichever you prefer—is served in a generous soup-size bowl.
When: Daily, 6:30am-8pm. Eat and drink this at breakfast.
Order: Follow your bread and chocolate appetizer (20p) with one of Candita’s other traditional breakkies, like chilaquiles, enchiladas, or enmoladas.
Alternatively: You will find this breakfast all over town, especially in market stalls.
